Our Land, Revealed: Meeting BC’s wine leaders

It was a real treat to be able to listen to an informative discussion of what makes BC a distinctive and important place to make wine. This morning’s event, titled Our Land, Revealed: Opening Plenary, brought out the true leaders of BC’s wine industry, such as Harry McWaters, Anthony Von Mandl, and winemaker Howard Soon among many others.

As BC wine devoutists, as you can imagine, Mike and I were in our element.

When we arrived (a bit late) Harry McWaters was charming the crowd with his accounts of “the early days” of BC wine. Harry’s been in the biz for 41 years, and while he claims to be “retired” (having stepped down from running Sumac Ridge), he’s still working as a consultant within the local industry. He described the less-than-stellar beginnings of Sumac Ridge Estate Winery‘s Stellar’s Jay Brut, which now wins international awards and was recognized with a Lieutenant Governor’s award last year. The 1991 Blanc de Noir is the oldest Sumac Ridge vintage they are still drinking “in quantities.”

Howard Soon, esteemed winemaker for Sandhill, presented the 2008 King Family Vineyard Pinot Gris being offered for tasting. Howard shared the story of how the Pinot grapes were named “Pinot” (because of the shape the cluster of grapes makes looks like a pine cone, so the story goes). The Sandhill Pinot Gris has gained a great following locally and abroad for its fresh, lean and juicy palate, says Soon. Fresh is the typical style of BC white wine. He adds that terroir is going to play a big role in the future of wines in BC.

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Rod King, grower of the King Family Vineyards, talked about the human element of terroir – a respectful close relationship between the grower and winemaker is necessary for success. “It’s like a marriage,” says King. It is important to develop the nuances of the vineyard with making the wine. The King Family Vineyard has vines that grow vigorously, there is a balance with good exposure of sunlight to the leaves and the fruit of the vines. In 1992 there were 3 or 4 vineyards, now there are 25 from Penticton to Naramata and 40 – 50 on the Bench itself.

Michael Bartier, winemaker of Road 13 Vineyards talked about the grapes for the 2007 Old Vines Chenin Blanc – described as “chug-a-lug.” Discussion ranged from the differences between the terroirs for the Black Sage Bench and the Golden Mile to the latitudinal effect on the growing season. Although the season is short, the days are long. This together with the soil impact on the grapes produces incomparable wines.

Matt Holmes, winemaker for Tantalus Vineyards is a native of Australia but makes his home here now in BC. Tasting was the 2006 Old Vines Riesling, a BC stand-out. Style is acid vs. sugar, more Australian style of making the Riesling.

Anthony von Mandel is the legendary proprietor of Mission Hill Family Estate Winery, and one of the great entrepreneurs of BC’s wine business. Tasting was 2006 Perpetua (Chardonnay). Bold name to extend for generations, peuter label to signify something everlasting. Block of vines used for Perpetua are hand picked and sorted. BC needs to go to the world for the world to discover BC wines, Von Mandl argues. Anthony also talked with pride of his new Paradise Ranch project on the Naramata Bench – they’re replanting large sections of it now, and he says it’s a potential Pinot Noir site.

Grant Stanley, winemaker for Quails’ Gate Estate Winery spoke next. Tasted 2006 Stewart Family reserve Pinot Noir. Grant went to New Zealand in 1991 and returned in 2003 to work at Quails’ Gate. Acidity makes wines ageworthy, says Grant, and it’s BC’s acidity that makes the place so compelling. Minerals from volcanic rock on the lee side of Mount Boucherie where grapes are grown add complexity to Quail’s Gate wines.

Tom DiBello, winemaker for Cedar Creek Estate Winery addressed the room after Grant Stanley. The room got to taste his 2006 Platinum Merlot. BC is one of the best places in the world to grow Merlot. The fruit is bright and vibrant, goes back to acidity. There is a natural balance, so it is too cold for mold or detritis to grow on the grapes in the winter. However, the grapes survive better in moderate temperatures (proximity to the lakes) so they avoid “winter kill” which would occur in regions with more extreme hot/cold weather. Valuation taken into consideration, will be producing wines under $20.00.

Brooke Blair, winemaker for Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate Winery is another Aussie winemaker here in BC. JT’s 2006 Proprietor’s Grand Reserve Shiraz was poured. Brook described the remarkable Osoyoos Bench vineyard where the Shiraz is grown – it has a beautiful setting and remarkable consistent heat. The Shiraz grapes are grown in sandy soils, they are a vigorous variety.

Finally, moderator Anthony Gismondi reminded us there were 2,000,000 visitors to BC wineries in 2008! Now let’s top that number, as everyone seems to agree that BC’s wines are only getting better.